TODO COMENZÓ EN MERCADO DE ESCLAVOS DE PORTUGAL

…Por: Josefina Dobinger – Álvarez Quioto …Giuliana Tedeschi, sobreviviente de Birkenau […] Me hizo notar que por la ventanuca se ven las ruinas del crematorio; […] Ella había preguntado a las veteranas [del centro de concentración] «¿Qué es ese fuego?» y le habían contestado: «Somos nosotras, que nos quemamos». Primo Levi (1958, 2002)  *** Comencé a reflexionar sobre la identidad y mi ser negra desde que tengo conciencia, pero la urgencia de escribir sobre el...
Invitadoseptiembre 10, 2016

…Por: Josefina Dobinger – Álvarez Quioto
…Giuliana Tedeschi, sobreviviente de Birkenau […] Me hizo notar que por la ventanuca se ven las ruinas del crematorio; […] Ella había preguntado a las veteranas [del centro de concentración] «¿Qué es ese fuego?» y le habían contestado: «Somos nosotras, que nos quemamos».
Primo Levi (1958, 2002)
 ***
Comencé a reflexionar sobre la identidad y mi ser negra desde que tengo conciencia, pero la urgencia de escribir sobre el tema surgió durante un viaje que realicé a Portugal. Visitamos la ciudad histórica y turística de Lagos, antiguo puerto marítimo desde donde zarpó la primera flota europea medieval hacia África y las primeras personas africanas fueron llevadas a Europa para ser esclavizadas como artículos de lujo. Durante mis estudios en la Carrera de Historia inicié la exploración sobre la trata negrera, la esclavitud, el colonialismo y el movimiento literario cultural de las negritudes. Mi propósito fue examinar el papel de los movimientos reivindicativos garífunas en la vida cultural, política de Honduras y su lucha por preservar sus valores, tradiciones y territorios.
No fueron suficientes las lecturas y la negativa de la academia ante mi insistencia en tratar estos temas como aportes al conocimiento histórico, para prevenirme de los golpes que recibiría al comprender que el impacto de la colonización continúa hoy en día tan presente y latente como aconteció hace quinientos años en nuestro continente. Al contrario, estas experiencias desgarradoras me han arrastrado hacia la urgencia de continuar con la pregunta por el sujeto, la historicidad, las identidades y lo cultural como postura política.
Fue en la plaza del mercado de esclavos, donde me detuve y experimenté un profundo suplicio al evocar las imágenes en los libros de historia, sobre los barcos negreros y las condiciones en que se desarrolló la trata de personas africanas hacia América. Pero sobre todo, me traslade en el tiempo a través de los recuerdos a situaciones que describen la experiencia de la otredad desde mi ser garífuna, una identidad “estable” desde la cual estaba anulando la diferencia.
Para poder situar los recuerdos despertados en el puerto de Lagos, es necesario un acercamiento a la fundación de las ciudades modernas y su establecimiento a partir de sus componentes más destacados; la exclusión y la desigualdad, puesto que los actores sociales regulados histórica y estructuralmente fuera de los centros de poder, establecen prácticas sociales reguladoras, excluyentes y discriminatorias (Fanon, 1952, 2009).
Por largo tiempo, recordar las siguientes tres vivencias me causaron un intenso sentimiento de irritación y molestia. Me abrazaron por mucho tiempo sin dejar espacio para la palabra. En ellas se narra la experiencia que la poeta peruana Victoria Santa Cruz describe de manera excepcional en su poema “Me gritaron negra”. Crecí amando mi ser negra, mi pelo crespo, musuco como llamamos en Honduras, mi piel azabache y orgullosa de que me llamaran garífuna o negra, caso contrario cuando me llamaron mujer de color o morena. Sabía o creí saber quién era, sin embargo estas vivencias me llevaron a otros aprendizajes que desconocía. Enseñanzas que dieron paso a conocerme a mí misma a través de la existencia del Otro.
Cuando relataba estos eventos con humor a mis amistades o nuevos conocidos y conocidas, una forma de refrescar y aligerar la tensión de lo que su contenido emitía, la reacción que provocaban en los oyentes no era la risa, sino el silencio y tras éste un atropello de palabras como; ¡Qué barbaridad! ¡Qué pena! ¡Eso no te pasaría aquí!
“…Me niego rotundamente
A negar mi voz,
Mi sangre y mi piel. Y me niego rotundamente
A dejar de ser yo,
A dejar de sentirme bien
Cuando miro mi rostro en el espejo …Y me niego categóricamente
A dejar de hablar
Mi lengua, mi acento y mi historia. Y me niego absolutamente
A ser parte de los que callan, De los que temen,
De los que lloran….”
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Entre notas musicales y tabaco

Recuerdo el sufrimiento que sentí al enterarme del retraso del vuelo que me hizo perder la conexión que me llevaría a la Habana, Cuba donde me dirigía a participar del Encuentro “Mujeres latinoamericanas y su cultura de cara al nuevo milenio. Teoría, historia y crítica”. Me esperaban en la Habana una pareja de amigos con quienes me quedaría a vivir por el tiempo que duraría el encuentro. La angustia me carcomía el cuerpo porque era consciente de lo que implicaba para mis hospederos poder conseguir un transporte que nos llevara del aeropuerto al centro de la ciudad, es decir, los costos y la logística que implicaba. Finalmente llegué un día después de lo planificado, me movilice con un turitaxi que me llevo directamente a la Casa de las Américas donde se desarrolló el evento.
Era mi primera vez en la Habana y mi curiosidad era inmensa, caminé la ciudad y su malecón, también entre a una peluquería para poder vivir la cotidianidad de la ciudad y sus habitantes. En aquellos años -1999- la discreción era una de las reglas que tenían que respetarse, sobre todo si se es una turista. Un mundo dividido para los citadinos y otro para los visitantes, pero en mi caso, no fue mayor problema pasar desapercibida por ser negra. Pude desplazarme por la ciudad como cubana, siempre y cuando no dijera palabra, ya que mi acento hondureño me delataba.
Emocionada de conocer la Habana Vieja, recorrí el mercado de artesanías en compañía de mi hospedero; hombre joven, cabello rubio y ojos azules. Disfrute a lo grande de la venta de libros usados y de máscaras que es una de mis grandes pasiones. Entre el bullicio de la gente, escuché que alguien gritó “¡Jinetera!”, no reaccione ante al alarido, pero mi casero si lo hizo. Se dio vuelta, y más revuelto que una chinche como decimos en Honduras, gritó enojado y fuera de sí: “es que tú no ve, que yo soy cubano, chico” y vociferó otro par de cosas. Hasta después del alboroto, supe que jinetera, es el nombre coloquial para las prostitutas en Cuba.
Mi viaje continuó cargado de aventuras, y una mañana cuando me dirigía a la Casa de las Américas, me encontré ante mi nuevo reto; viajar sola en el transporte local, autobús muy particular llamado Camello. Estaba avisada que no podía ponerme a entablar conversaciones con los usuarios porque corría el riesgo que me bajaran del bus, pero no fue necesario llegar a este punto, porque esperando la llegada del Camello me percate que no tenía pesos cubanos en mi monedero. Mirando la hora que era y consciente de la distancia que me esperaba decidí tomar un taxi.
Vi que algunas personas hacían parada a los autos antiguos, como los que suelen verse en las películas de antaño, sin rótulos de taxis, pero era de conocimiento generalizado que hacían carreras para los citadinos. Me acerque a uno de ellos al mismo tiempo que otras personas se subían, le explique al conductor que no tenía pesos cubanos pero que podía pagarle en dólares para que me llevara a la Casa de las Américas. Aconteció lo temido, el taxista me dijo que yo no era cubana y que no me podía llevar. Me dijo, es mejor que tome un turitaxi para que me lleve a mi destino.
Mire por todos lados y esperé hasta que vi acercarse un turitaxi, uno igual como el que me trajo del aeropuerto a mi llegada a la Habana. Después de un rato de espera, logré divisar uno, agité la mano vivamente para llamar su atención, pero el taxi no se detuvo, luego paso otro y esta vez fueron las dos manos que con mayor efusividad trataron de llamar su atención, luego una tercera vez hasta que entendí que los taxis no me hacían la parada porque suponían, o era claro para ellos, que yo era cubana. Entonces me hice al camino en medio del calor caribeño. Anduve durante largo rato y disfruté de recorrer una ciudad vieja donde los edificios parecían sostenerse únicamente por el tiempo y la brisa del mar.
Pase por un hotel y mire por una vitrina que exhibía habanos y junto a éstos, partituras con música de Silvio Rodríguez, al verlas me alegré mucho y pensé que ese sería un lindo regalo para mi hermano Emilio  Álvarez, que es músico Alvarez Emilio. Le pregunté a un empleado del hotel, muy elegantemente vestido por el precio de las partituras, el me contesto: ¿Con qué dinero crees tú que lo vas a pagar? Me quedé congelada, una corriente eléctrica me atravesó el cuerpo y sentí que el tiempo se detuvo. Lo miré a los ojos y le contesté: «con dólares». Me di la vuelta y abandone el hotel.
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Un día cualquiera

Era un día de trabajo rutinario, esperaba a una señora que no conocía personalmente con quien tenía programada una cita en la oficina donde trabajaba. En ese entonces me desempeñaba como Coordinadora de la reciente organización hondureña de mujeres artistas Mujeres en las Artes MUA en la ciudad de Tegucigalpa. Tocaron la puerta y al abrirla, saludé y la señora preguntó si se encontraba la Coordinadora, le dije que sí, que por favor pasara adelante. Al atravesar la puerta le di la mano y me presenté con nombre y apellido e informándole que era la coordina de MUA, le manifesté que me daba gusto conocerla y la invité a tomar asiento. Una vez las dos sentadas me dijo nuevamente, mirando para todos lados, pero yo vengo para hablar con la Coordinadora y le repetí nuevamente, se encuentra enfrente de ella.

Desencuentro inesperado

Era uno de esos días fríos que obligan a vestirse con varias capas de ropa, me conducía a mi clase de alemán en el centro de la ciudad de Viena. Estaba parada en la acera de la calle al lado de un semáforo a la espera que la señal para peatones se pusiera en verde. En ese mismo momento, eran las ocho de la mañana aproximadamente, se detuvo un auto, bajando la ventanilla del copiloto, un hombre me dijo ¿Cuánto por los dos? –¿wie viel für die zwei?– comentando inmediatamente que ustedes –ihr– las nigerianas bien pueden con dos. Esa vez no fue el frío el que me dejó en estado de enfriamiento sino la rabia.
***
Veinte años después de acontecer los tres relatos anteriores me vi confrontada en la vivencia de dos eventos que encuentro pertinente compartir en este espacio. Dos relatos fieles a la estructura de los anteriores y que todavía no terminan de prepararme para superar el asombro, y reconocer quizá, que tenemos una gran tarea por (de)construir un mundo donde podamos convivir humanamente.

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El costo de los estratos para la dignidad

No habíamos cumplido ni tres meses de haber salido de Austria para establecernos con la familia en Colombia, es decir, en el año 2014. Me llamó poderosamente la atención que los conjuntos residenciales en Bogotá adquieren complejos sistemas de vigilancia y seguridad privada, algo parecido a las capas de la cebolla, compuestos por un rígido protocolo de control en la entrada del conjunto, después en el edificio donde se vive que finaliza en la entrada al apartamento, cuando se posee un sistema electrónico de acceso. Lo anterior, varía de acuerdo a los estratos socioeconómicos de sus habitantes, a través de los cuales se asignan subsidios y se cobran contribuciones a los servicios públicos de acuerdo a la clasificación de los inmuebles que se despliega a partir del estrato 1 para el bajo-bajo, hasta el 6 el estrato más alto. A mi juicio y de muchos colombianos y colombianas los estratos son una evidente prueba de la discriminación al interior de la estructura social.
Hecha la observación anterior, continúo con mi relato. Regresaba de una de mis corridas matutinas, toqué el timbre del portón de entrada a la urbanización, por el acceso de entrada utilizado por los visitantes y personal de servicio, porque el portón para los residentes se ubica al otro lado de la calle. Después que me abrieron el portón, entré y salude con un buen día y continué trotando calle arriba hacia el edificio donde resido. Avanzados unos pasos, un guarda de seguridad corrió detrás de mí y desesperado por detenerme, gritó, espere, espere, ¿dónde está tu carnet? Me detuve y me voltee, sin entender lo que ocurría en ese momento y nuevamente me preguntó sin un disculpe o una pregunta que interrogue hacia dónde me dirijo o a quién busco, la pregunta concreta era ¿dónde está el carnet? me percate de mi lentitud para comprender lo que se estaba desarrollando en ese momento.
Finalmente le dije al guarda de seguridad, ya ubicada en el contexto; desde que vivo en este conjunto nunca me han pedido un carnet para poder ingresar y además, comenté enfáticamente, yo vivo aquí. Al regresar mi esposo del trabajo, interrumpí el abrazo acostumbrado de saludo, con el comentario sarcástico, no me abraces frente a la ventana porque si nos miran los vecinos dirán que estas abrazando a la empleada, y de esa manera introduje el tema para compartirle mi pericia del día.

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Crisis humanitaria en Europa

Había pasado un año y medio de nuestra estadía en Colombia cuando regresamos a Austria para disfrutar vacaciones escolares y visitar la familia, amigas y amigos. Nuestro primer encuentro al llegar a Europa fue la crisis humanitaria por la expulsión de miles de personas como consecuencia de las guerras, mayoritariamente de Siria, Afganistán, Marruecos, Palestina y de Libia.
A un par de días de nuestra llegada a Austria, salí a correr con poca motivación pero con la certeza que después de los primeros pasos, mi cuerpo me lo agradecería profundamente. Tome una ruta que me conduciría a un camino donde podría correr en el bosque y de esa manera protegerme del calor y disfrutar de uno de los espacios más hermosos que conozco. El territorio perfecto para disfrutar del silencio, algo difícil de percibir cuando se vive cotidianamente en un medio urbano cargado de múltiples referentes, tanto auditivos como visuales y con limitados espacios para encontrarse con una misma.
Después de veinte minutos, sentí que la felicidad me abrazaba, ya había alcanzado el ritmo y la dosis de endorfina perfecta, por lo que ese momento se volvió mágico. Finalmente llegue a un sendero angosto y levemente inclinado, rodeado de árboles, que me introdujeron a los Bosques de Viena -Wiener Wald-. De repente mire que en el mismo sendero bajaba un perro con su dueña, él venía adelante de ella, a un par de metros de distancia. Desde que le vi, deje de correr y comencé a caminar. El perro paso a mi lado y cuando me acerque hacia la señora y dije buenos días, se desató un desencuentro de lo más absurdo, doloroso e inesperado.
La mujer de unos sesenta años de edad me pregunto si hablaba alemán y le conteste afirmativamente. Ella se acercó y me dijo; cuando usted venga corriendo y pase a la par de un perro no se detenga siga corriendo como si nada, los perros no le harán daño. Le dí las gracias por el consejo, y dije que ya he tenido la experiencia que al seguir corriendo había sido atacada por otros perros. El problema dijo la mujer, es que usted tiene miedo a los perros, y le conteste que sí, que tenía razón, motivo por el cual prefería caminar cuando me encontraba con ellos en el camino. Además, he aprendido a tener un gran respeto por los perros y por sus dueños y prefería caminar cuando me encontraba en el mismo camino que ellos.
Respecto a mi comentario, respondió para mi asombro; lo malo es que “ustedes” no quieren los perros. Se desarrolló un ir y venir de palabras y en mi afán por justificarme le expliqué que desde niña en nuestra casa habíamos tenido perros y que mi distancia hacia ellos no tenía que ver con quererlos o no. Continuó hablando con insistencia sobre el “ustedes”, de cómo los manteníamos amarrados a diferencia de “ellos” los austriacos que vivían con los perros en libertad. Percibiendo, según yo, el camino hacia donde se dirigía la discusión, le dije que soy latinoamericana, nuevamente en un intento de autodefensa. Pensé que si le exponía que soy oriunda de Honduras creería que este exótico lugar se ubica en una selva remota del continente africano, una reflexión que realicé de manera consciente y para nada inocente, ya que presupuse que la discusión se encuadraba a partir de mi color de piel.
Debo declarar que mi cerebro se preparaba para escuchar un comentario racista, como por ejemplo que en África los negros no queríamos a los perros por que las y los africanos no eran civilizados o algo parecido. Con la intención de salir de la duda, le pregunte directamente a que se refería con el “ustedes” ¿Quiénes son esos ustedes de los que está hablando? Y ella respondió: ustedes los musulmanes.
Los relatos anteriores tienen en común la mirada sobre el Otro, que interpreto a partir de la propuesta El peligro de una sola historia de la novelista keniana Chimada Adiehe. La autora advierte que poderosas historias han influido en nuestras vidas generando la consecuencia involuntaria de identificar un evento, un grupo social o situación para llevar a cabo una lectura de ésta, desde la base de una historia única. En un marco estructural del poder, la historia determina qué y quién contará la historia, y qué es lo que se contará sobre el Otro.
La manera en que se escriben los relatos, vendrán a describir el lugar asignado para mujeres negras, ya sea que éstos se desarrollen en territorios como el de Honduras, Cuba, Austria o Colombia. Las vivencias aquí narradas establecieron y definieron realidades y posibilidades sobre la persona, juicios previos carentes de conocimiento sobre el Otro. Las mujeres juzgadas al interior de los relatos, representaciones que la sociedad desde distintos contextos ha creado, fueron nombradas y descalificadas por miembros de la sociedad sin detenerse a preguntarse por la persona, sin ir más allá de los (pre)juicios.
Desde este enfoque me he apropiado del poder hacer, en otras palabras, realizar una lectura de mi propia historia desde el poder y la posibilidad de contar la historia del Otro, la mía. De tal manera, recordar estas vivencias me condujeron al sentimiento que habían pisoteado mi dignidad, resultando en la imposibilidad de nombrar lo incomprensible. Las historias pueden dar poder y humanizar, también pueden reparar la dignidad de un pueblo (Adiehe, 2009). En tal sentido, estas historias aluden a la búsqueda de desmitificar el contenido que los estereotipos esconden al (re)marcar las diferencias y no sus similitudes.
Fue durante mi estadía en Portugal que recordé las primeras tres experiencias, imágenes que se proyectaban consecutivamente en mi mente sin parar, cómo una película. Desde ese no lugar emerge la urgencia política de dirigir las razones de mi existencia con responsabilidad desde un “yo es otro” en palabras del poeta Arthur Rimbaud, aunque en ese momento no sabía cómo hacerlo. Esa búsqueda describe la responsabilidad de un pasado que nos pertenece y forma parte de nuestro presente, un pasado que conlleva también a comprender de donde nace la exclusión y la desigualdad, por lo que se vuelve necesario recordar para volver al corazón.
Lo arriba expuesto evoca sentimientos respecto a mi ser garífuna; el respeto a la sabiduría ancestral de los pueblos que le conforman, su mestizaje y sus historias de lucha por su libertad y la de sus territorios. Antecesores de los indígenas Arahuacos, Callinagu, Caribes Rojos y africanos provenientes del Golfo de Guinea y Senegambia, todos ellos han dado cuerpo a la memoria ancestral que se ha mantenido viva, integrada a los saberes, las creencias y las experiencias transmitidas de generación en generación.
Las memorias sobre las luchas por la supervivencia y el éxodo se conservan inalteradas en el tiempo a través de la música y los rituales, decretados desde el 2008 patrimonio cultural inmaterial de la humanidad. El recurso de auxilio que hemos heredado de nuestros ancestros es el reconocimiento de un pueblo conformado por personas que fueron esclavizadas tanto negros como indígenas y lucharon por su libertad, sus territorios y sus tradiciones.
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La situación actual de los garífunas en Honduras está centrada en el desafío ante la colonización moderna que los ubica, al igual que el resto de poblaciones indígenas originarias de Honduras, ante una lucha que recuerda y confronta un presente que los arrastra a un cautiverio y pretende esclavizarlo. Ante este proceso de (re)colonización el pueblo garífuna continúa enfrentándose a una lucha por la defensa del territorio ancestral, afectado por las presiones territoriales provenientes de terratenientes, empresarios turísticos, de la palma africana y de empresas hidroeléctricas, además de los frentes de colonización promovidos por el Estado de Honduras, tal y como lo advierte OFRAHNE, primera organización de pueblos indígenas en Honduras creada en 1978.
Se vuelve necesario dentro de este contexto recordar y reclamar justicia por el asesinato de Berta Cáceres y los miles de hombres y mujeres cuyos cuerpos han sido silenciados a lo largo de nuestra historia nacional. Una guerra no nombrada que está socavando las entrañas de la población hondureña.
Desde que era una niña, las enseñanzas de mi padre Jose Lino Alvarez se dirigieron hacia el valor que poseen las tradiciones de nuestro pueblo. A pesar que nací en la capital de Honduras y que el número de garífunas era reducido en aquel entonces, los viajes y las visitas de familiares junto con la fuerza de la tradición oral, no permitieron una ruptura con el pasado ancestral. De acuerdo a lo anterior podría afirmar que la cohesión social al interior del pueblo garífuna se mantiene latente, aún considerando las amenazas como el VIH/SIDA, el cambio climático, la vulnerabilidad ambiental, la desterritorialización ancestral y la influencia de los medios de comunicación de masas, que no afectan únicamente a los pueblos garífunas.
Según el investigador en migraciones Kenny Castillo, el éxodo actual de los garífunas como lo ha sido en décadas anteriores, se vincula a otros tipos de violencias. Violencias silenciosas, no sangrientas que igualmente han generado pérdidas profundas, ya mencionadas en otro apartado de este escrito, como el violento desalojo de decenas de garífunas por parte de la Policía Nacional en la aldea de Barra Vieja, Tela, Atlántida, lo acontecido en Castilla, Colon y en la zona del Aguán. Estos y muchos otros acontecimientos violan derechos fundamentales como el goce de la justicia y de ser tratado de la misma manera que los Otros, haciendo referencia a dueños de consorcios turísticos que promueven esos desalojos (Castillo, 2015).
Retorno a mis recuerdos en Portugal, donde me pensé desde mí ser negra, luchadora de mi territorio y ante el impacto que me provocó volver a datos que indican la llegada en 1444 de las y los primeros negros africanos al Mercado de esclavos a Lagos. Considerados artículos de lujo, fueron subastados 235 mujeres y hombres esclavizados, tres siglos después la cifra de africanas y africanos tratados en condiciones inhumanas en Latinoamérica superó los diez millones.
La trata y esclavitud humana es una trama que habla de las vivencias tejidas en mi cuerpo. Un proceso de indagación sobre los tipos de hilos, fibras o materiales necesarios para tejer una malla resistente que fortalezca mi corazón. Durante muchos años me resistí a escribir sobre las dimensiones que tienen para mí el ser una mujer negra y lo que ha implicado en mi vida haber trabajado por casi una década con mujeres afectadas por la trata de personas en Austria. Resistencia que evoca al poema “lamento” de Shirley Campbell (2015) al dolor de la piel, al cansancio del camino, al creer que cuando amanece la noche empieza, y cuando la noche es dulce amanece, abres los ojos y otra vez sientes frio.
Finalmente, inicie el proceso de tejer los hilos de este relato con mi cabello y termine con mi piel, prueba veraz del mestizaje indio y negro. Me resisto con ferocidad a negar mi descendencia negra y mucho menos la india, de ahí que encuentro de uso inapropiado que quiera establecerse exclusivamente como afrodescendientes a los garífunas, cuando sus cuerpos, sus territorios, sus luchas y reivindicaciones se encuentran profundamente ligadas a las raíces africanas como a las indígenas.

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Josefina Dobinger – Álvarez Quioto

Investigadora social hondureña, Mag.Sc. en Estudios de la Mujer por la Universidad de Costa Rica, Diplomado en Trabajo, educación y consejería por Instituto de desarrollo económico WIFI, Viena Austria, especialista en trata de personas, historiadora y cofundadora de Mujeres en las Artes (MUA).

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